Why is Audemars Piguet Reviving the “établissage” Technique?

Établissage is first and foremost an ancient collaborative practice, intrinsic to Swiss watchmaking in the Jura region. It relies on a network of about ten small independent workshops working under the direction of an établisseur watchmaker to co-create artisanal watches as one-of-a-kind pieces or in very small series.

This project has been in the works since Ilaria Resta took the helm of the brand in 2024, but it is also a bold venture. Barely three months after her appointment, the new CEO pitched the idea of reproducing watches from the 1940s to the 1980s to Sebastian Vivas, a historian and director of heritage and the museum since 2012. While the teams were already busy writing a nearly 600-page book celebrating Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary, a small team was formed and the project was launched in May 2024.

“Watchmaking was born out of a spirit of collaboration and interconnectedness; it’s not just a pose. All the workshops are like families that we host under our roof. The entire ecosystem is interconnected, and I felt that Watches and Wonders was the right platform to bring this project to life—a place where we all share the same passion for watchmaking,” explained Ilaria Resta during a conference at the fair.

On November 29, three designs were selected. Ilaria Resta was already convinced: these watches would be the stars of the brand’s booth at Watches and Wonders Geneva, a year and a half later. “We had to choose three designs, and it was very difficult. I remember very well when Sébastien placed the ‘Peacock’ design on my desk—it was absolutely incredible: I was certain we would bring it to life.”

On Tuesday, April 14, the first day of the fair, the watchmaker finally unveiled its “Atelier des Etablisseurs” project with three exclusive pieces: the “Peacock” watchmaker’s watch, the “Nomade,” and the “Galets.” The latter is inspired by the pebbles surrounding Lake Joux, where Audemars Piguet’s headquarters are located, a few kilometers from Le Brassus, as well as the “Arabella” watch from the 1970s. “Each pebble is different in size and shape. Everything is finished by hand; it’s a way of combining the demands of watchmaking with craftsmanship. We must ensure we always stay within the right shade of color. Each piece is a unique imprint,” explained Mario Senape, a gemologist and lapidary in Cossonay, during the conference.

The time required to manufacture each watch is measured in weeks. Production will therefore be limited to just a few pieces per year. “We hope to produce two to three models a year,” noted Ilaria Resta. The Peacock Établisseur watch, meanwhile, resembles a real peacock whose head rises and wings spread to reveal an enamel dial that displays the time. “This piece brings together all the crafts of watchmaking: decoration, engraving, hammering, enamel work, and the mechanical mechanism for opening the wings. It’s a special and spectacular watch, a true work of art,” she added.

Finally, the Nomade watch, designed by Ludovic Python, can be transformed into a table clock. “The Nomade took a month to create. Skeletoning is a craft that requires a great deal of time and patience,” explained Jérôme, an expert engraver. The prototype, also presented at Watches and Wonders Geneva, will subsequently be produced in a limited run of about fifteen pieces over several years. “The Nomade can be placed on a table or worn as a pendant. I am very proud of this piece, which is both modern and rooted in tradition,” commented Ilaria Resta.