Made in France Textiles: An Industry to Be Revived, Reports The UIT

The study, published on November 18, brings us back to the controversy sparked by the opening of Chinese brand Shein's first physical store at BHV in Paris, which reignited concerns and highlighted the risks associated with ultra-fast fashion: aggressive commercial practices, lower-quality products, and pressure on local players.

For the major luxury houses, relocalization and the strengthening of local industrial skills are already an active strategy. LVMH, Hermès, and Kering are investing heavily in production in France and Italy to ensure quality and traceability and to preserve artisanal expertise of excellence.

In 2024, the LVMH group had 119 production and craft workshops in France. Bernard Arnault's group is also focusing on training: since 2014, more than 3,300 apprentices have been trained in over 280 craft trades through the Institut des Métiers d'Excellence. Hermès claims that 100% of its leather goods are made in France, a key part of its brand identity.

The Kering group has adopted a “made in excellence” strategy in Italy: more than 13,700 Italian employees work for the Pinault family's company, representing more than a quarter of its total workforce. Kering has more than 40 production sites in Italy and its local activity contributes nearly €10 billion to the Italian economy, or 0.6% of GDP.

Also in Italy, a study by La Conceria, a platform dedicated to monitoring the activities of tanners and leather goods manufacturers, found that 78% of the production of the 15 leading luxury groups is carried out in Italy, particularly for leather (80%) and footwear (77%). This industrial concentration confirms Italy's status as the “Silicon Valley of luxury”: a breeding ground for expertise coveted in particular by French luxury giants.

According to the study by the Union des Industries Textiles, France would therefore be well advised to develop its local textile industry. The France Relance and France 2030 public initiatives have gradually helped to relocate processing and spinning mills, particularly for linen, the former flagship of the French textile industry.

But there is still a long way to go. The Safilin spinning mill, which had just been relocated to the Hauts-de-France region in 2022, has recently closed its doors. It is therefore time for public authorities and fashion industry players to reflect on an industrial and commercial strategy for the future.