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Rosé wine, the new liquid “gold”

190 euros a bottle is what you have to pay to buy the most expensive rosé in the world. The world demand is booming and new investors are buying property at a golden price.

Aymeric Mantoux

By Aymeric Mantoux20 septembre 2022

Since 1731, the Château d'Estoublon has been perpetuating the tradition of exceptional olive oils and wines (Bienvenue en Provence)
Carla Bruni and Nicolas Sarkozy invested in the Château d'Estoublon this summer (Terre de vin)

Even the former French president Nicolas Sarkozy, who does not drink wine, and his wife Carla Bruni, singer and model, have succumbed to the "rosé wave" by announcing, in the middle of summer, that they have invested in Château d'Estoublon alongside businessman Stéphane Courbit. Once owned by the Schneiders (then owners of Breitling), it certainly produces an exclusive olive oil sold at the price of a luxury perfume, but what interests the Sarkozys is... the rosé produced on the neighboring vineyards. And why? Because the market for rosé wines from Provence is exploding: worldwide consumption has increased by 40% in 20 years. Even the pandemic has not managed to stop the growing trend of rosé wine (+6% in 2020).

In volume, it now represents 10% of wines sold worldwide. And the category shows no signs of slowing down: 70% increase is expected by 2024. "French wines dominate, especially in the highest-end segment," explains Benoist Simmat, wine journalist and author of “L'histoire mondiale du rosé”. France is the world's number one rosé producer with more than a third of global production (multiplied by 10 since 2009) and also the leading consumer country." No wonder its 60 million bottles of rosé per year (up 516% over 10 years) are attracting investors.

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The rise of rosé made in Provence

The Miraval castle is located in the commune of Correns, in the Var (France) and comprises an estate of 600 hectares (Miraval)

Not far from Estoublon, it's a successful duo, formed by the serial entrepreneur Michel Reybier (La Réserve hotels, in particular) and the international star, former basketball player with multiple hats Tony Parker, who has set his sights on the Château La Mascaronne, located in Le Luc, in the Var. The sublime estate was bought from the American Tom Bove, himself a figure of the wine-producing Provence for having sold the Château de Miraval to Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie. Bove, who is one of the pioneers of this new Eldorado, has already bought and sold several other estates after converting them to organic viticulture. This shows how much he knows about developing the potential of properties in Provence. Under the impetus of the new partners, the stakes are high: to raise the brand to the highest level worldwide and to give it a new life. The choice of the Mascaronne by both partners is no coincidence. It is the result of a meticulous benchmark to find a diamond in the rough and to make it into a real treasure. Moreover, the estate is considered by many experts in the sector as a little wine jewel. Its terroir, its organic certification, its qualitative approach to wine growing, and its fine reputation constitute a solid foundation for potential development. The two partners intend to build a strong wine brand on this foundation, a symbol of excellence that produces exceptional wines, in order to accelerate international growth.

In 2011, actors Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie acquired the Miraval estate as a partnership with winemaker Marc Perrin (Shutterstock)

The global market for rosé wine has continued to strengthen, both in quantity and quality, as it is driven by new consumption habits and behaviors. "Its refreshing taste profile and its ability to be served on a wide range of social and festive occasions is attracting a new clientele," explains a recent study by the International Rosé Observatory (IRO). More recently, its glamorous image, a move upmarket, characterized by pairings with more refined dishes, have helped improve its deseasonalization and enables it to be served throughout the year. This has allowed rosé to break through and maintain a universal appeal, regardless of the knowledge or experience of wine consumers.

Substantial investments and prices

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