Art & Design

Luxury Takes Center Stage at Milan Design Week

Aymeric Mantoux

By Aymeric Mantoux18 avril 2024

The 2024 edition of the event is more than ever under the patronage of leading luxury brands. In addition to global labels like Hermès or Tod's, which were already present, watchmaking brands are also battling to have their say.

Milan Cathedral, Duomo di Milano, Italy, a Gothic masterpiece, one of the world's largest churches and symbol of the city (Shutterstock)
Panerai is the official watchmaker of the 62nd Salone del Mobile. In the photo, a Submersible Luna Rossa (Panerai)

Jean-Marc Pontroué, CEO of Panerai (Richemont Group), attests to this enthusiasm: "We have a strong connection with Milan, a symbol of creativity. (...) We are excited about this partnership that aligns with our values. (...) Our brand is constantly dedicated to performance and technological innovation." Indeed, who better than Panerai, a brand with Swiss horological roots but a distinctly Italian soul, to be the official watchmaker of the 62nd edition of the Salone del Mobile? Although native to Florence, Panerai has established itself in Milan by offering two notable experiences to visitors. One unfolds at Casa Panerai, located on via Montenapoleone, in the heart of the luxury nerve center of the Lombard capital, while the other opens a pop-up shop at Rho Fiera Milano for the occasion.

The Design Capital

Although it takes place just a week after the Geneva show, it is an essential event for watchmaking brands like ours

Manuel Emch, CEO of Louis Erard

This year, more than ever before, Milan becomes the epicenter of design and luxury for a week. In full swing, the city, traditionally known for its industry and classicism, becomes "The Place to Be," in the words of Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot (LVMH), who chose this date and location last year to unveil the brand's new model in collaboration with Swiss artist Maxime Plescia-Büchli to the world. This year, Hublot is a partner of the Maison de la Suisse during the fair, where it has set up a wall to showcase the Hublot Design Prize amidst installations by designers and hosts a highly anticipated soirée. But what drives them all to invest in Milan and organize events during a design week already packed with activities?

Louis Erard joins forces with atelier oï to create a watch inspired by sundials, engraved with asymmetrical rays (Louis Erard x atelier oï)

Hermès, Tod's, Roberto Cavalli, have been regulars—since 2011 for Hermès—at objects or initiatives tied to design. "Although it takes place just a week after the Geneva show, it is an essential event for watchmaking brands like ours. And the audience is very different, more artsy, trendy, international, less trade-oriented," testifies Manuel Emch, head of Louis Erard. A house that produces numerous editions and collaborations with prominent artists like the Swiss conceptualist Olivier Mosset, as well as architects and designers. This year, Louis Erard presents exclusively in Milan its collaboration with Atelier oï. But it won't be the only watchmaker aiming to address high-profile international clients or the press.

Bridging Time and Design

Every year, Milan's heart is more alive than ever, the city becoming more contemporary and increasingly attractive.

Giuseppe Sala, Mayor of Milan

For this edition of Design Week, the Japanese watch brand Grand Seiko has positioned itself as an official partner. "Causes in Motion: Reflections on the Balance between Nature and Man" is the title of the experiential installation that the Japanese house has set up at Casa Brera, in the heart of the eponymous district, a true hub of Milanese events during this April week dedicated to design. As the official timekeeper of the Brera Design District and Fuorisalone for another two years, Grand Seiko reinterprets the theme chosen for the 2024 edition, "Natural Matter," by offering the public a unique and original exploration of the connection between these two elements. An echo of the brand's philosophy that embodies "The Nature of Time." "Design has always been part of Grand Seiko's DNA," comments Frédéric Bondoux, President of Grand Seiko Europe. "Milan Design Week represents an important moment for dialogue with the public. It is useful for expressing and sharing the very essence of our brand. Grand Seiko, through its philosophy inspired by nature, brings to its watches the very Japanese idea that the passage of time is at the foundation of all evolution. A concept that Grand Seiko summarizes with the motto 'Living in Time.' Visitors will have the opportunity to admire the brand's new model, the Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon, which is on display all week.

Official partner of Design Week, Grand Seiko, presents the experiential installation 'Causes in motion: reflections on the balance between nature and man' at Casa Brera, inviting visitors to explore the link between nature and time. Discover the new constant-force Kodo tourbillon (Grand Seiko)

For luxury brands, it has become essential to be in Milan. This year, it will be with emotion that we discover what the fashion designer Roberto Cavalli, who sadly passed away a few days ago, will present as a preview: the "ray of gold print" from the new Maison collection. The print adorns the tramways of Milan's streets, and Café Condé Nast, Piazza Cordusio, also bears the colors of the fashion house.

Meanwhile, Hermès invites visitors to "escape from time – while keeping their feet on the ground." The brand showcases its new creations alongside pieces of furniture or objects from its significant historical heritage. After all, true style transcends years and trends. Visitors will find the "casaque," a strong symbol of the house's equestrian passion and its dedication to saddle and leather craftsmanship.

Milan: Between Tradition and Modernity

The Voltige lamp by Hermès (Louis de Roffignac - Hermès)

Thanks to all these initiatives, the Lombard capital, which has celebrated design for nearly a century, is experiencing a renaissance. Luxury brands unleash their imagination and spare no expense. This trend aligns with the latest announcement from the Tod's Group: funding the restoration of all the façades of the Palazzo Marino, totaling over 5000 square meters, including 2000 square meters around the venerable courtyard, some architectural elements of which date back to the 16th century. "We are particularly proud and happy to do something significant and concrete for Milan," assures Diego Della Valle, President and CEO of the Tod's Group. "The restoration of the Palazzo Marino, which all citizens consider their own home, allows us to send a strong signal of respect and gratitude to Milan and its citizens." This effort is praised by the city's mayor, Giuseppe Sala, who emphasized that "Every year, Milan's heart is more alive than ever, the city becoming more contemporary and increasingly attractive."

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