Japanese jersey (OJJ) promises to be long-lasting
The Japanese jersey OJJ (Original Japanese Jersey) is on the rise. This innovative material, of which the Italian fashion group FGF Industry has exclusivity, is now allowing the brands of the transalpine pole to stand out, with the Ten C brand in the lead.
By Bettina Bush Mignanego21 décembre 2021
An inveterate researcher and expert in technical materials, the Italian industrialist and fashion designer Enzo Fusco is the owner of the FGF Industry group, founded in 2001. The division, which includes the Blauer (50% of shares), BPD (Be Proud of this Dress), Ten C and Prince Tees brands, announced that it had closed the year with a 20% increase in turnover to 60 million euros and around 250 shops worldwide. The entrepreneur has always had a passion for innovative materials and processes. As a true collector of technical and military clothing, over the years he has built up an archive of more than 40,000 pieces that inspire him on a daily basis to create highly resistant clothing. "My specific feature is to continually innovate," explains Enzo Fusco, "research is the basis of all my work. The fibre called "OJJ", born in Japan, is for example a very resistant jersey. It is the backbone of many of our collections. We are now able to make ecological dyes. I compare this jersey to a quality denim, because the more you use this material, the more beautiful it becomes."
My specific feature is to continually innovate, research is the basis of all my work
Enzo Fusco, owner of the FGF Industry group
In an interview with "Luxury Tribune", Enzo Fusco describes his group's strategies, particularly for the Italian brand Ten C, founded in 2010 by Alessandro Pungetti and taken over by FGF Industry in 2019, whose uniqueness lies in its focus on garments made with OJJ fibre. This high-performance material is made up of nylon and polyester fibres, knitted at high density to create a highly wind and water resistant structure. For autumn, it has been made in different weights, 12 oz and 11 oz, while for spring and summer, it is reduced to 9 oz. There are outerwear, trousers, sweatshirts and shorts for warmer climates, always in a luxury segment. Different, easily recognisable clothing, but without a logo. In the OJJ 12 oz category, for example, there is the Smock Snow jacket, without a waist belt; for colder climates, there is the Deco Down parka, in nylon, a model inspired by the N-3 Flying Jacket that protected crews in flight in their unheated cockpits.
For spring, there are lots of trousers and sweatshirts in OJJ, as well as a collaboration with Gang Box, the stage name of Moda Garrison-Msingwana, an artist and illustrator living in Toronto, Canada, who innovates by mixing different languages between art and fashion; this will be a collection of 3 t-shirts and a sweatshirt, in black and white with a touch of Ten C's classic orange, which favours colours without excess.
What do you think are the winning characteristics of this highly successful material, OJJ?
Its quality and beauty. It was born in Japan, a country with very refined tastes, and I am happy to have the exclusive rights to it. This fibre manages to adapt to the shape of the wearer and, thanks to our dyeing processes, it has this unique colour that wears slightly, lives and changes as the person wears the garment. The OJJ allows us to work with different fibre weights to suit the coldest and warmest climates.
What have been the developments of the Ten C brand in 2021?
It has developed very well, we plan to double its production. In 2020, we took risks at group level, we invested a lot, we reorganised, but it was worth it. All our brands are doing well, including our historic Blauer brand, which has continued to grow steadily by 15%, even in recent years. And we are seeing the same positive figures in all countries, in the US, Italy, the UK, Korea and Japan. In Japan, the brand has been very successful, thanks in part to the fruitful collaboration we had with the designer Kitose Abe, owner of the Japanese brand Sacai, on a capsule collection that was very well received. It was created with the OJJ fibre, models that combine sports and military clothing, from the Parka to the Tempest Anorak and the down jacket.
Can you tell us about the sustainability that sets FGF Industry and OJJ apart?
We were the first to think of high-quality, environmentally friendly down jackets. For Ten C, we were able to develop innovative ecological dyes. It is also noticeable that ecological down has started to develop well in recent years. In addition, we have the ambition, especially with Ten C, to make clothes that can last forever, that are not tied to a passing fashion. Today, people are looking for something of quality, comfortable, practical and beautiful to wear, which looks good on the person who chooses it.
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