The Red Coral: Inner Workings of a Tense Market

Zoologists classify Mediterranean corals and those from tropical reefs under the same group (Cnidarians) and class (Anthozoans), although tropical reef corals are madrepores residing in surface waters, whereas coral used in jewelry belongs to the Gorgonian family, harvested from rocky seabeds at depths of 10 to 15 meters and beyond.

According to the Scientific Center of Monaco (SCM), "The name Coral was initially coined not for tropical corals, which were unknown to Europeans, but for another organism, the Red Coral of the Mediterranean, Corallium rubrum. Until the 16th century, this coral was indeed the only known coral. The name coral comes from the Hebrew 'Goral,' meaning magical stone. The Greeks transformed it into Korallion, 'I adorn,' which became in Latin Corallium, still used to define red coral. It was only from the 16th century that it was applied to other corals." As per the SCM, its use dates back to at least the Neolithic period, 4000 years before BC, and this trade has continued unabated over the centuries. It served as a medium of exchange with North Amber, Middle Eastern spices, or Indian diamonds.

In jewelry, generally, five species of corals are used due to their hardness and compactness characteristics: Corallium Rubrum, Japonicum, Elatius, Secundum, Konjoi. None of these species are native to coral reefs. Corallium rubrum is widespread throughout the Mediterranean and is commonly known as Sardinian coral; it is found up to 200 meters deep and is generally red in color with varying shades depending on its origin. Japanese coral, sometimes inaccurately used to describe the four species of the Pacific Ocean, exhibits colors ranging from intense red (Japanese dark coral, Aka) to the pale pink of the famous angel skin (Boke'), to the orange of Cerasule, and the pinkish-white of the Deep Sea. It is also found at considerable depths: up to 1500 meters deep. Out of the approximately 1,200 existing coral species, only five are exploitable for specialized artisans.

As an organic stone, the price of red coral varies depending on the size of the pieces, hardness, and color intensity. One of the most coveted, Sardinian coral, is mainly extracted around the Alghero region in the north of the island. Cartier has used Alghero coral to create some of the most impressive pieces in the latest installments of the "Le Voyage Recommencé" collections. Dubbed the "red gold of Sardinia," the price of coral can reach 80 euros per gram. Its fishing is highly regulated.

Bulgari, Cartier, or Boucheron often combine the brilliance of diamonds with the vibrant red of Mediterranean coral. Yet, this treasure was on the brink of disappearance just a few decades ago.

Until the early 1980s, fishing practices were indeed detrimental to its survival. In Corsica, reefs were decimated by sea scrapers, these boats equipped with Saint-Andrew's crosses - large one-ton iron crosses dragging about forty meters of chains - which destroyed the entire ecosystem in their path. A real disaster for all organisms buried under the mud and sand overturned by these destructive tools, subsequently deprived of photosynthesis.

Since then, trawl fishing has been banned, and reserves have been created. Today, only divers are authorized to harvest coral at a depth of at least 50 meters.