The Microbiome: At the Heart of Strategic Innovation for Beauty Giants

For the past decade, the science of the skin microbiome has been at the center of the race toward achieving the holy grail of beauty. Mapping this living ecosystem and understanding it more deeply has long depended on scientific and technological advances. That is still true today, but everything is moving faster. Thanks to next-generation genetic sequencing (NGS), it is now possible to precisely analyze the composition of the microbiota without relying on bacterial cultures. While the human genome contains around 30,000 genes, the microbiome encompasses more than 3 million—most of which reside in the gut, according to an article in the Revue médicale suisse.

The gut is not the only site of this beneficial proliferation: the skin, our largest organ, also cultivates an exceptional ecosystem of bacteria, viruses, fungi, and parasites. This is where most cosmetic research is now focused.

Overall, groups active in dermocosmetics have recently seen an average growth of 10%.
A pioneer in the field of the skin microbiome, Doctor of Pharmacy Marie Drago founded the brand Gallinée ten years ago—now owned by Japanese group Shiseido. She recounts: “Gallinée was the first to capitalize on bacteria and the microbiome. At the time, nobody really understood what it was. We managed to develop intellectual property from our research, which is quite rare for an independent brand. Being pioneers and invited to all major scientific conferences in the field has allowed us to maintain a significant lead in research. Like L’Oréal or Unilever, I have access to all the new ideas emerging on the microbiome, and my marketing and product development skills allow me to move fast. Gallinée is a small brand, which gives us great flexibility.”

That agility is precisely what appeals to Shiseido, which now benefits from the brand's strong research dynamic. Today Gallinée’s Creative Director, Marie Drago adds: “Shiseido aims to develop its pharma-beauty division, which is thriving, but they are also very interested in the intellectual property aspect. My patents are now part of the group, and Shiseido has begun developing products based on my innovations. For us, having access to an exceptional research ecosystem is invaluable. When I visited Shiseido’s Yokohama lab, I saw 900 researchers working inside an ultra-modern building. It was fascinating.”

Shiseido’s acquisition of Gallinée in 2022 illustrates the industry’s appetite for the field. “The microbiome is a young science, but it is progressing quickly,” says Drago. “Ten years ago, acne bacteria were considered harmful. Today, we know they can produce anti-aging and anti-inflammatory molecules.”