Luxury must lead the way in cultural appreciation
While craftsmanship has always been celebrated as a symbol of luxury in fashion, artisans have received little recognition for the value of their art and culture. Today, the various accusations of cultural appropriation are causing brands to shake. A new wave of designers is celebrating and empowering the creativity of those who work behind the scenes.
By Morgane Nyfeler27 septembre 2022
The fashion industry has had an ambiguous relationship with cultural appropriation for decades. However, a heightened awareness of the phenomenon is emerging, accelerated by the current era, where diversity and inclusion are under scrutiny. But what does the term actually mean? Broadly speaking, it refers to Western brands that use symbols, prints and clothing from other cultures without correctly crediting their source or respecting their meaning. Recent examples include Isabel Marant, which has been accused of commercially exploiting traditional Mexican indigenous designs in several collections, or Louis Vuitton's Palestinian-inspired scarf, which was removed from the website in 2021 after being criticized on social media. In most cases, the brand acknowledges its mistake and withdraws the garment with an apology, under pressure from social networks. This awareness can be an important lever for indigenous cultures, and encourage design that respects communities, rather than excluding them from the conversation. The designers celebrating craftsmanship in fashion
Register
Newsletter
Be notified of the latest publications and analyses
Enabling cultural appreciation in luxury fashion
We see more and more brands pursuing grassroots collaborations and a more responsible artistic exchange
Rebecca Hui, founder and CEO of Roots Studio
There’s no denying that there is now a greater call for redressing the historic imbalances between creative directors and craftspeople within the fashion industry. Sustainability and transparency have been sources of concern for the past years and shoppers are more engaged with traceability, asking where and by whom their clothes are made. “We see more and more brands pursuing grassroots collaborations and a more responsible artistic exchange as they resonate with a wide range of consumers,” says Rebecca Hui, founder and CEO of Roots Studio which builds fair partnerships between indigenous artists and fashion brands through textile design licensing.
The agency works with local communities with an abundant artistic heritage to bring their arts and crafts to the fashion world, generating a sustainable source of income while popularising and preserving their traditions. Through cultural education and a consistent dialogue, the team ensures a seamless creative collaboration where voices from both sides are heard and enables transparent storytelling that is sensible of cultural meanings and religious sentiments.
To continue reading this articles, subscribe now
CHF 10.- per month / CHF 99.- per year
- Unlimited access to all paid content
- Industry analysis you won't find anywhere else.
- In-depth case studies on key business challenges.
- Academic analyses, studies and publications written by professors and researchers from the Swiss Center for Luxury Research and some foreign universities.
- Members-only events to grow your knowledge and network.
Share the post
Keep reading
Haute couture 2022: the return of the spectacular
The revaluation of art craftsmanship is at the heart of 2022 Spring-Summer haute couture collections. The spectacular is returning to shed the light on savoir-faire that remained in the shadows.
By Eva Morletto
Milanese Luxury, where roots become fashion statements
The emotional connection given by a piece of clothing that once belonged to « mamma » has been setting the trends of the fashion capital, Milan.
By Elena Cozza
Register
Newsletter
Be notified of the latest publications and analyses