AbonnéArt & Design

Life After Fashion

Emmanuel Grandjean

By Emmanuel Grandjean03 juillet 2025

Maria Grazia Chiuri is taking over a theater in Rome. Dries Van Noten wants to promote Venetian art and craftsmanship in a Gothic palace. Meanwhile, Helmut Lang and Martin Margiela have shifted careers to become artists. Fashion can lead anywhere — provided one finds a way out.

In May 2025, Maria Grazia Chiuri ended her nine-year career at Dior. She chose the French gardens of the Villa Albani Torlonia in Rome for her final cruise collection (Dior/Laura Sciacovelli)

Just days before announcing her departure from Dior on May 29, 2025, Maria Grazia Chiuri, 61, posed with her daughter Rachele Regini, 28, for the Financial Times inside a small Roman theater. Artistic director of the French fashion house for nine years, she explained that she had purchased the Teatro della Cometa in 2020 in a state of severe disrepair. After four years of renovation, she reopened the 233-seat venue with its 1950s grandeur restored. “If you love a place, you have to preserve its energy and essence,” she said. She had timed the grand opening of her new project to coincide with Dior’s cruise show — the last of her career.

After a career at Fendi, Valentino and Dior, Italian designer Maria Grazia Chiuri is taking on a new challenge: to bring the legendary Teatro Della Cometa back to glory. Above, she poses with her daughter Rachele Regini and the mayor of Rome, Roberto Gualtieri (Teatro Della Cometa)

For me, fashion in its current form has completely lost its appeal. Being away from corporate obligations has been an incredible relief

Martin Margiela, artist

When one chapter ends, it always opens onto a blank page. For Maria Grazia Chiuri, this next page will be written in the red-velvet-draped setting of this Italian-style theater, originally built by Countess Anna Laetitia Pecci-Blunt — affectionately known as Mimi — an impassioned and flamboyant arts patron. A whimsical figure who always fascinated Chiuri, who, as a child, dreamed of entering the palace next door, also belonging to the Pecci family. Chiuri also sees this new adventure not as fate, but perhaps as a sign from above: “The Pecci family’s coat of arms was a comet, which gave the theater its name,” she told Le Monde. “And as we know, Mr. Dior made a star his lucky charm and emblem.”

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Acquired in 2020 by Maria Grazia Chiuri, the Teatro Della Cometa in Rome was inaugurated in May 2025 (Teatro Della Cometa/Laura Sciacovelli)

In her hometown of Rome, Chiuri and her daughter will bring the theater back to life with a program of plays, readings, recitals, and performances. But is she truly leaving her past behind? The stage, the lights, tragedy, comedy, makeup, costumes, audience — theater has something of fashion, and vice versa.

Creating at Any Cost?

This naturally raises the question of life after fashion — a world like no other, sometimes feeding on hubris, where designers are exalted by brands as gods (at least as long as collections sell), only to be quickly dethroned when their creativity no longer flies off the shelves.

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