Fashion

Kean Etro says a poetic goodbye

Milan Fashion Week provided the perfect setting for Kean Etro, son of the founder of the eponymous brand, to bid an artistic farewell to the house. He is replaced by Marco de Vincenzo

Eva Morletto

By Eva Morletto22 juin 2022

Etro's S/S 2023 collection at Milan Fashion Week (Etro)

The last spring-summer collection of Kean Etro, son of the founder of the Etro brand, entitled "The wild power of poetry", had a bohemian and poetic style. The theme had already delighted the show's guests when they received the invitation. Instead of a letter, they all received a phone call from an actor reciting a personal poem. On the spot, the show's scenography suggested to the spectators the unfolding of a day, from dawn to night: diaphanous light at the beginning, then warm lighting reminiscent of a summer afternoon, and finally a starry evening, a metaphor for a beautiful farewell for Kean Etro, whose sources of inspiration have always been literature, art and above all travel - the Paisley motif, originating from India, being the house's emblem.

Kean Etro's curiosity and verve were evident, even in the details. Among the motifs on his designs was the number 432 Hertz, which the designer defines as "the frequency of beauty".  This number is found in various philosophies inspired by Buddhism, which recognise in this value the frequency of the Earth and the harmony of the soul.

On the catwalk, the transparencies and superimpositions of materials highlighted the shapes of the male body. The models walked barefoot or in minimalist sandals with rope soles, another example of the simple happiness and essential values that Kean Etro defends. At the end of the show, Kean and Marco De Vincenzo greeted the guests together, making the handover official.

The brand, founded in 1968 by Gerolamo Etro and now controlled by LVMH via the private equity fund L Catterton, welcomed Marco De Vincenzo, the new creative director, at the beginning of the month. The eclectic designer had already been noticed for his collaboration with Fendi. Will he be able to keep the New Tradition concept on which Kean Etro based his creative process? We'll find out with the next collection, which for the first time will be entirely signed by De Vincenzo.

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