In Como, Chanel reveals its Italian Ambitions

The ties between Chanel and Italy are as strong as ever and continue to grow. This is clear from the French fashion house's recent initiatives, both in terms of its investments and its increased control over its production chain.

On April 29, Chanel presented its cruise collection in the sumptuous setting of the Villa d'Este, a legendary hotel on the shores of Lake Como. This landmark event kicks off an exceptional season for cruise shows in Italy: Florence will soon welcome Gucci, while the Royal Palace of Caserta will be the setting for Max Mara's next show in June.

When asked by Milano Finanza, Bruno Pavlovsky, president of Chanel's fashion division, said that the fashion house is now “half Italian, half French.” This strong statement illustrates Italy's central place in the group's strategic vision. While a significant part of Chanel's management is now based in Italy, the production chain also plays a key role.

A significant portion of Chanel's production is now transalpine. The house's shoes, as well as a large part of its denim designs, are now produced in Italy. When it comes to leather goods, France and Italy share manufacturing almost equally.

In early April, Chanel announced that it had acquired a minority stake - estimated at 35% according to the Italian press - in Mantero, a historic company specializing in silk fabrics based on the shores of Lake Como. This is a strategic move, in line with other recent investments aimed at securing the quality of raw materials and strengthening control over the value chain.

In a post-Covid context marked by a normalization of sales, Chanel, like other luxury houses, is focusing on industrial consolidation. Retaining suppliers and guaranteeing consistent excellence are becoming essential to maintaining high prices and ensuring the brand's longevity, at a time when supply chain tensions are mounting. A digital passport for Chanel products is also in the works, to ensure complete transparency in the manufacturing process for customers.

The challenge is clear: Italian luxury SMEs, renowned for their exceptional expertise, are a strategic asset. In recent months, Chanel has stepped up the pace: in March, the company became the majority shareholder in Grey Mer, an Italian shoe manufacturer. It then acquired a 20% stake in Leo France, which specializes in metal accessories. In 2023, Chanel had already acquired a 24.5% stake in the cashmere manufacturer Cariaggi, alongside Brunello Cucinelli.

With this series of targeted operations, Chanel is charting a clear course: to consolidate an Italian sector of excellence, serving its creativity and high standards.