Frédéric Grangié, Chairman of Watches and Fine Jewelry at Chanel: “Everything Starts with Creation, but without Product Integrity, it means Nothing”

In Chanel’s space at Watches and Wonders, the intimate, blue-toned ambiance—highlighting the signature color of the new J12 model—invited connoisseurs to immerse themselves in the brand’s watchmaking expertise. Without display cases to separate the pieces from viewers, the watches could be examined from every angle: artistic craftsmanship, mechanical complexity, and ceramic mastery were all on full display.

For Frédéric Grangié, it is essential to emphasize that watchmaking at Chanel is conducted entirely in-house, receiving the utmost attention and resources. Proof of this commitment is found in the stages of ceramic production—specifically for the J12 BLEU—which he likes to keep close at hand. Throughout the interview, he refers to it frequently as a testament to the technological advances Chanel brings to watchmaking.

Since taking over the division in 2016, Grangié has been a key figure in forging a strategic partnership with Rolex through the Kenissi manufacture in Le Locle, which produces movements for Tudor. For him, excellence and mastery of quality are a constant pursuit. He elaborated on this during an interview with Luxury Tribune in April, during the Watches and Wonders fair.

You’ve said Chanel’s watchmaking aims to stand among the greats. What does that entail?

It’s important to frame this question within the broader context of the brand: an independent, family-owned house with a century-long history, and a longstanding leader in fashion, fragrance, and beauty. Jewelry, of course, has been part of the house since 1932, but watchmaking is relatively young—we’ll be celebrating its 40th anniversary in 2027.

Compared to centuries-old maisons, we remain humble. That said, the development of Chanel’s watchmaking division is of major importance, and it receives the same level of care as our other métiers. Building the brand’s heritage also means shaping what Chanel watchmaking will look like in 50 years. And on that front, over the past four decades, we’ve likely launched more innovations in the world of women’s watches than any other brand. Chanel has accelerated its development to become not just a serious watchmaker, but a pure player.

What elements within Chanel make that possible?

Creation! It’s sacred at Chanel because it is the brand’s foundation. The design of the Première watch echoes the house’s iconic codes: the Place Vendôme, the cap of the No. 5 perfume bottle, the leather-woven chain of the Maison’s signature bag. This was the brilliant vision of Jacques Helleu, and a crucial strategic decision by the house in 1987—to follow the same path as with perfume and fashion: no licenses, just pure ownership. In 1993, Chanel acquired the Châtelain manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, which became the cornerstone of our expertise and development. Everything begins with creation, but without product integrity, it has no value and cannot endure. The ambition is great and may seem daunting in the short term, but there’s no reason it won’t be fulfilled. Our mission is to think long-term while acting decisively.

What’s the best example of this long-term thinking?