What if the future of cosmetics lay in products that are made only at the moment they’re used? With Duolab, Swiss businesswoman Anna Bory is championing a new generation of skincare, based on the freshness of active ingredients, personalization, and technology capable of overcoming certain long-standing formulation challenges.
Duolab is focusing on a new generation of skincare. Here is the machine that mixes the ingredients (Duolab)
In the world of cosmetics, time is, paradoxically, one of the main enemies. A cream must be able to be transported, stored, and preserved for months, even years. This requirement imposes constraints on formulation and stability, particularly when it comes to incorporating active ingredients that are especially sensitive to oxidation or degradation.
This is precisely the problem Duolab aims to overcome. The principle involves storing the various components of a skincare product separately in hermetically sealed capsules, then mixing them at the last moment in a machine called the Minilab. Two capsules—one containing an aqueous phase and the other an oily phase—are emulsified in about 90 seconds to create a freshly prepared dose of skincare. The brand claims to hold more than twenty patents related to this technology.
A cream made on the spot
Anna Bory, CEO of Duolab (Duolab)
The idea is not new to the industry. It had already attracted attention at CES in Las Vegas in January 2020, when Duolab—then a startup within the L’Occitane Group—presented a system combining a machine, capsules, and skin analysis. At the time, the device offered three moisturizing bases and five targeted concentrates, with the ability to generate different combinations based on the skin’s needs.
The benefit of mixing the ingredients just before use is that it maximizes the effectiveness of the active ingredients (Duolab)
The press quickly compared the concept to a “Nespresso of beauty.” But behind the marketing image lay a very real industrial challenge: How to preserve fragile active ingredients without subjecting them to the constraints of a traditional cosmetic product? The patented emulsification process made it possible to produce a fresh single-dose product in 90 seconds, without preservatives.
Six years later, Duolab still presents this philosophy as the core of its business model. The brand asserts that its skincare products are developed and manufactured in Switzerland and that its formulas are fragrance-free, silicone-free, and composed of up to 97% naturally derived ingredients for its four main products.
Reinold Geiger, the entrepreneur behind Duolab
Reinold Geiger is an Austrian businessman and former CEO of L'Occitane en Provence (DR)
Behind this technological venture is Reinold Geiger, one of the leading entrepreneurs in the contemporary cosmetics industry. An engineer with a degree from the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology in Zurich and an MBA from INSEAD, the Austrian began his career in industry before turning to entrepreneurship and high-end packaging.
With Duolab, the idea of mixing the ingredients and using them right away is absolutely brilliant
Reinold Geiger, the entrepreneur behind Duolab
He founded AMS Packaging, which specializes in packaging for perfumes and cosmetics. When he discovered L’Occitane in the early 1990s, the company—founded in Provence in 1976 by Olivier Baussan—already had a strong identity but remained largely French. Geiger acquired a stake in the company in 1994 and then set out to give it an international dimension, while preserving its Provençal DNA. Hong Kong, New York, Tokyo—international openings multiplied, and L’Occitane gradually became a global group. This culture of expansion was accompanied by a conviction that has never left him: a company must continue to reinvent itself.
At 79, Geiger still embodies that energy. “I think that, in my head, I’m 25 and not 79 at all,” he says with a laugh. He adds, “When you have an entrepreneurial spirit, it’s an adventure you experience your whole life, and you never want to stop.” For him, innovation isn’t just an industrial strategy. It’s almost instinctive. “You’re constantly coming up with ideas and new projects, and then you want to get started and see them through to the end,” he explains. This philosophy helps explain why, after several decades dedicated to beauty, he’s still interested in a cutting-edge technology capable of challenging the industry’s fundamentals.
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