Watches

Breitling acquires Universal Genève brand

By Cristina D’Agostino12 décembre 2023

In a statement released on Tuesday, December 12th, Breitling announced the acquisition of Universal Genève, a prestigious watch brand that has been forgotten for decades. Framing this acquisition as 'a historic development for the Swiss watch industry,' Breitling aims to revive the long-forgotten potential of Universal Genève, which has a history dating back to its foundation in 1894.

Universal Genève watchmakers working in the factory around 1960 (Breitling)

Georges Kern, PDG de Breitling (Antoine Beu - Wikipedia)

Universal Genève was once hailed as the couturier of watchmaking, renowned for its in-house movements and mythical models. It is a brand that watch enthusiasts have dreamed of seeing make a permanent comeback," said Alfred Gantner, co-founder of Partners Group and chairman of Breitling's board of directors. Georges Kern, CEO of Breitling, is ready to take on the challenge of reviving this sleeping beauty, which has many exquisite male and female watch icons. Among them is the Compax chronograph with a manufacture movement and the Polerouter watch, designed to withstand all climates. For its creation, Universal Genève had enlisted the 23-year-old Gérald Genta. In 1966, Universal Genève introduced the world's thinnest automatic movement in the Golden Shadow model.

Vintage advertisement for a Universal Genève watch for women, published in a French magazine around 1940 (Breitling)

Since 1989, Universal Genève has been owned by the Hong Kong-based Stelux Group. The acquisition amount has not been disclosed. "Rebuilding a brand with such a rich narrative is not a quick endeavor—it is a meticulous labor of love that we anticipate will unfold over the coming years. A dedicated team will be brought on board to allow Breitling and Universal Genève to operate as separate maisons," explained Georges Kern, CEO of Breitling.

Founded in 1894, Universal Genève established itself during the first half of the 20th century with innovative designs and technical feats. However, the quartz crisis significantly challenged the company, marking a turning point in its trajectory. With this acquisition, Breitling aims to restore this historic brand to its former glory, rooted in Swiss tradition while capable of adapting to modernity.

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