Paris Fashion Week promises renewal

Following New York, London, and Milan, Paris has begun its week of fashion. The French capital will host 67 runway shows dedicated to spring-summer 2024 women's ready-to-wear fashion and 40 presentations, including those by Chloé, Alexander McQueen, Carven, and the newcomer to the official schedule, Italian brand Marni. Pierre Cardin, on the other hand, is making a grand return after 25 years of absence from the Parisian catwalks, thanks to Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin, the iconic designer's great-nephew.

This year, particular attention is focused on the Balmain house, which faced a major challenge when nearly fifty pieces from its new collection, designed by Olivier Rousteing, were stolen, causing shock and concern, just two weeks before the show. Nevertheless, Balmain has maintained its show scheduled for September 27th, relying on the skill and organization of the artisans who had created the prototypes. However, the year ahead holds promising prospects for the brand as it considers expanding into the cosmetics industry with the launch of the 'Balmain Beauty' label, in collaboration with the American giant Estée Lauder, overseeing its development. The release is planned for the fall of 2024.

This week will also be marked by farewells: Gabriela Hearst, known for her commitment to sustainable fashion and the designer for Chloé, and Sarah Burton, the English designer who took over the artistic direction of Alexander McQueen after the founder's passing. Meanwhile, Louise Trotter, former designer at Lacoste, makes her debut at Carven and presents her first collection. The brand was acquired in 2018 by the Icicle Group, a Chinese fashion company based in Shanghai, which became ICCF (Icicle Carven China France) in 2020. While the brand still faces some challenges regarding its market positioning, Louise Trotter's arrival is highly anticipated to refresh the brand's identity.

Paris Fashion Week, spanning both Haute Couture and Ready-to-Wear, generates approximately €10 billion in annual revenue, encompassing all fashion houses. It retains its status as the most influential Fashion Week among the four major international fashion weeks, followed by London, Milan, and New York.