Fashion

New York Fashion Week: between political messages and iconic comebacks

Eva Morletto

By Eva Morletto09 septembre 2024

On 6 September, the must-see fashion event kicked off in New York. Spring/Summer Fashion Week 2025 promises to be a year marked by political events but also by iconic comebacks at some highly-anticipated shows.

The Ralph Lauren Spring Summer 2025 fashion show took place in the Hamptons (Ralph Lauren)

On Friday, 7 September, big names in the industry, such as Anna Wintour, Thom Browne and Michael Kors, accompanied by First Lady Jill Biden, called on Americans to vote against Donald Trump at the ‘Fashion For Our Future’ march. The event featured militant symbols created by designer Willy Chavarria in the streets of Manhattan.

On the programme: Ralph Lauren took to the catwalk a day before the festivities began, organising an exclusive event in the Hamptons - the place to be today, as the guests included actors Jude Law and Joey King, while the catwalk saw the return of supermodels Naomi Campbell and Christy Turlington. Piéter Mulier, the Belgian artistic director who took over the reins at Alaia two years ago, presented his new spring-summer collection in the sumptuous setting of the Guggenheim Museum, in the presence of a host of stars including actress Liv Tyler, iconic models Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista and Amber Valletta, and the much-anticipated Rihanna. Tommy Hilfiger, meanwhile, showed his new marine-inspired designs on the MV John F. Kennedy, a former ferry linking Manhattan to Staten Island.

Another eagerly awaited show, presented on 8 September, was that of Ibrahim Kamara, who, since the death of Virgil Abloh, has taken over the direction of the Off White collections, continuing the brand's heritage in harmony with the vision of its founder. In all, the calendar includes 98 shows. This year, fashion will be taking over the city's most emblematic spaces, from the Williamsburg Bridge to the chic galleries of Chelsea.

Despite the challenges of this year, including global economic difficulties and geopolitical tensions, the New York Fashion Week showcase remains a beacon of creativity and innovation. Its roots trace back to 1943, when the pioneering advertising executive Eleanor Lambert first conceived the idea. Since 1962, the Council of Fashion Designers has played a pivotal role in promoting the creations and judging their quality, adding to the event's rich history.

New York Fashion Week is not just a celebration of style and creativity, but also a significant contributor to the city's economy. It pumps nearly 900 million dollars a year into New York's economic bloodstream, creating 180,000 jobs and other economic opportunities. This underscores the event's importance and its far-reaching impact.

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