Why Were the Offices of Brunello Cucinelli, Goyard and Moncler Raided by the Italian Police?

The Milan courts continue to send shockwaves through the luxury goods sector with a major investigation into the industrial practices of leading fashion houses. Accused of labour law violations, eleven companies are suspected of having indirectly employed Chinese workers on Italian soil, in conditions deemed inhumane, with some being housed in unsanitary accommodation.

More specifically, according to reports in the Italian daily 24 Ore il Sole, “the major brands are said to have used ‘front’ companies for their supply chains, backed by their own good reputation; but these, in turn, are said to have turned to Chinese factories that do not comply with health and safety standards, where workers’ rights are not guaranteed and wages are well below the prevailing rates.” According to the newspaper, “All these companies used the services of Moda Fashion Style srl and Isacco Srl, which were raided last May, during which items bearing these brands’ logos were discovered.”

In July 2025, Loro Piana, a cashmere specialist and an 80 per cent subsidiary of the LVMH group, had even been placed temporarily under administration following revelations about subcontracting workshops indirectly linked to its production chain.

According to our information, of the 40 per cent of Italian luxury textile production, more than 60 per cent of these companies employ fewer than ten staff, whilst using suppliers whose lack of transparency undermines the credibility of ‘Made in Italy’ luxury goods.

The brands under investigation by the authorities and which have been asked to provide documents are: Owenscorp Italia (headquartered in Turin); Chanel (Milan); Brunello Cucinelli (headquartered in Corciano); Goyard Italia (Milan); Moncler (Milan); Stefano Ricci (Fiesole); Bulgari (Rome); Jacob Cohen Company (Milan); Etro (Milan); F.Vl (Brogliano); Brandart (Milan).

These latest raids therefore form part of a series of inspections launched by the Italian authorities in 2023, requiring luxury fashion houses to commit to working with suppliers who comply with labour laws.

The Italian courts appear determined to encourage brands to be transparent and to fund monitoring initiatives across their entire supply chains, in a sector facing constant economic pressure.

However, the Italian government does not appear to support the Milanese prosecutor’s work. Keen to protect the sector’s image, the Minister for Industry, Adolfo Urso, had come to the defence of the luxury giants in a statement, arguing that “the reputation of ‘Made in Italy’ was under attack”.